Over the past thirty years, we've witnessed the waistline seam placement of pants move up and down on the human form. Growing up on Chicago's South Side in the 1970s, I witnessed every type of pants fashion fad, from Hollywood high waists to hip-huggers. The double-knit craze brought on a no-roll waistband, and even though men's trousers got clingy and without belts in the past, you never saw a guy with pants sitting below the waist unless his stomach pushed them down a bit. Truthfully, menswear always seemed to be the stronghold when it came to where pants are worn. Traditionally, men have always kept their pants riding on the natural waist. When the 1980s exploded with wild fashions, including Hammer pants, mostly influenced by pop idols, menswear still held firm on where to wear the belt.
A crack appeared in the firm waist grip held by everyone in 1980…
The full essay — including what broke the waistline and where the well-dressed man wears his trousers today — is published in Atelier Quarterly Vol. I: La Belle Époque Redux. The Windsor Pleated Pants Collection is available now.
Vol. II — Couture Reformation is available now: Get Vol. II
Explore the Magazine | Atelier Acádemics | stacystewartsmith.com
Atelier Quarterly is a menswear couture magazine written and designed by Stacy Stewart Smith. Published from New York.
Stacy Stewart Smith (he, him)
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